Places to visit in Pasval district

The mill has been standing on the bank of Lėvuo river since 1764. It is one of the oldest water mills in Lithuania. In those days, there were three millstones and a wool carding mill.

During the Soviet era, the mill was abandoned, the roof collapsed, and the stone masonry walls began to crumble. It was rebuilt by the Pasvalys Reclamation Construction Board in 1980s, and a ballroom was installed. The building is currently owned by a private individual. In the vicinity of the mill, there is an exposition of ancient farm equipment and ethnographic household items. The guest house, space for family festivals and other celebrations invites you to stop by.

The first bridge in this place was very different from the current one. It was wooden, built in 1920. The adopted name of the “Freedom” bridge has been firmly established in the minds of local residents for a long time. The wooden bridge stood only for six years. The swift and watery Mūša River constantly destroyed the wooden parts, and ice jams threatened to collapse the bridge every spring. The ice flow reached the lower parts of the bridge and severely damaged the structures. The bridge buckled and it became dangerous to drive on it.

The new reinforced ­concrete bridge that connected the banks of Mūša became a symbol of Ustukiai village in 1928. This is one of the most beautiful structures in Pasvalys region.­ It was designed by Pranas Markūnas from Anykščiai. ­President Antanas Smetona took part in the ­opening ceremony of the bridge on 10 August 1928. The bridge was named after him. At the initiative of the Ustukiai community, the national flag of Lithuania is constantly flying over the bridge.

The bridge was built in 1929. It was brought in parts from Kaunas. Two steel trusses from Kaunas Panemunė bridge that collapsed in 1928 were used for the construction of the bridge, and the third was made in Lithuania.

In order to commemorate the tragic feat of the transatlantic pilots Steponas Darius and Stasys Girėnas, the Saločiai bridge was given the name of Darius and Girėnas in 1933.

An attempt was made to blow up the bridge during the war in 1944, but only its wooden parts burned. Later, no one looked after the bridge anymore, heavy machines and tractors destroyed the wooden pavement. The bridge was reconstructed in 1997, no authentic wooden pavement remained, but pedestrians still walk on wooden sidewalks of the bridge.

The homestead of Gulbininėnai Manor belonged to General Kazys Ladyga from 1925 to 1941. He tried to create a modern farm, to turn the manor into a real cultural center of the area. Thanks to K. Ladyga’s care, a post office, a shop, additional sections of elementary school, and roads were built in Gulbinėnai. He earned the greatest gratitude of the residents by founding a chapel on the estate, later supporting the construction of a church, and the creation of a parish. A seven-year-old school started operating in the palace of the Gulbinėnai manor in 1945 and operated until 1992. Today the manor belongs to a private individual. The territory of the homestead consisted of three zones: representative, economy, and recreational. The composition of the representative zone is characteristic to even the homesteads of baroque manors of the 18th century. All buildings are build from red bricks and stone masonry. Today, 10 buildings or their fragments remain: a palace, a granary, a workshop, barns and outbuildings. Behind the manor palace lies a large park with a unique system of ponds and canals. Acacia trees were planted around the ponds, the dance floor with lindens.

From the mid 17th century to 1940 Joniškėlis manor was controlled by Karpiai, one of the most extensive family in Lithuania. They built a classicist manor house in the second half of the 18th century and started creating a park. The park was designed by the German architect Franz Lehman in the 19th century. The old part of the park on the left bank of Mažupė River was built in the English style. The right bank belongs to the French park. Karpiai arranged the park spaces tastefully, family gatherings and weekend concerts took place here. Prominent Lithuanian cultural figures, writers, and public figures walked along the paths of the park. Today it is one of the ten largest (34 ha) and most valuable manor parks in Lithuania. On the parterre of the palace, 200 rose bushes bloom in summer. Take a walk along the paths of the park, admire the rare species of plants, relax in the gazebo. And come at least once to the mysterious “Night in Karpiai Manor”.

Legend. Once upon a time, trees never took root in the park. The steward of the manor proposed a macabre solution: to water the land of the future park with the blood of innocent babies. Karpis did just that – the trees took root and grew. Oaks grew where boys’ blood flowed, and lindens grew where girls’ blood flowed. However, the soul of the cursed landowner will roam the park as long as there is at least one oak tree in it. And today, when lightning strikes, Karpis face appears in the oak crowns, begging for lightning to strike and burn the giants. Only then will he find peace…

Gabrielė Petkevičaitė-Bitė (1861–1943), writer, publicist, and educator, spent almost 40 years of her life in Joniškėlis. It was the period of the town’s cultural rise, the prosperity of Lithuania, when the most prominent personalities of the Lithuanian nation of that time arrived to town.

G. Petkevičaitė was born in Puziniškis manor (Panevėžys District), in a family of intelligentsia nobles. The writer’s father, Jonas Leonas Petkevičius, practiced as a doctor, and her mother, Malvina Chodakauskaitė, graduated from the Vilnius ­Gymnasium. Petkevičius was appointed head of the Joniškėlis hospital in 1865 and moved here with his large family. Gabrielė was taught by the famous Lithuanian linguist and journalist Laurynas Ivinskis for two years (1866–1868).

G. Petkevičaitė was elected to the Constituent Seimas of Lithuania in 1920. As the oldest member of the Seimas, she had the honor of presiding over the first session. She even took part in the Lithuanian presidential elections, being the first female candidate. Joniškėlis gymnasium is named after her.

Buildings remaining until the late 19th century – early 20th century. The manor belonged to Klebokas, then to baron Ludvik Rop. He planted a park and built a red brick manor house that has survived to this day. During the Soviet era, the palace served as a cultural center and an administrative center for the local economy. Later, families lived here. The palace building was purchased by a private individual in 2003.

The manor palace is made of red brick, the central part has two floors, with an attic. A mixed-style park stretches along the Jiešmuo stream – a place for local people and guests to relax. A hanging wooden bridge connects the shores of Jiešmuo pond, there is a possibility to ride water bikes. An oak tree grows in the park – a botanical natural monument, its diameter reaches 1.5 m.

A windmill was built in the town of Pumpėnai in 1925. Jonas Kulalis invested here his capital that he earned in America. The investments were considerable, the body of the building is made of red bricks, the foundations are made of broken field stones. The Soviets, who occupied Lithuania, nationalized the mill and exiled the owner to Siberia. In the days of the collective farm, the mill was already powered by electricity, so the wings rotted and fell off. An attempt was made to restore the building in the 1980s, adapt it for festivals and a museum, but due to a change in the political system, it was not possible to do so. The privatized mill housed a cafe for several years, then stood empty for two decades.

The mill, which has the status of a state-protected object, was once again made famous by its new owners – “Būk geresnis” PE. The proactive youth organization successfully collected the funds needed for the preparation of the project of maintenance works. Institutions, organizations, communities and individuals bought the symbolic bricks and thus supported the mill. The prepared project was favorably received by the public, it was evaluated by specialists and recommended for state funding. If all goes well, the restoration of the mill should be completed in time for the centenary of its history.

The water mill in the village of Rauboniai was first mentioned in 1775. The wooden mill stood by Tatula River and belonged to the Raudonpamūšė estate managed by Baron Ulrich Saken, a general of the Tsarist Russian army. The Rauboniai mill was controlled by Baron Ludvik von Rop in the second half of the 19th century. He was probably the one, who built the current red brick building. Latvian Jonas Ribė bought and built wool carding and spinning facilities in 1907, thus expanding the company’s services. There was no other such company in a wide area around Rauboniai. Later, the Jew Chackelis Zivas installed new powerful English and Swedish equipment: carding machines and spinning machine. These authentic mechanisms operated daily until 1997. The building is a state-protected historical, technical, and architectural monument. Its greatest value is the preserved old technological wool processing equipment. Today, her work can be observed in the restored spaces of the mill. Educational sessions on wool processing are organized. The traditional craft festival “Vilnonės dienos” is held every year.

The narrow gauge railway line from Joniškėlis to Žeimelis used to run in this place. The bridge over Mūša was built during the Second World War, it was built by Soviet soldiers who were prisoners of the Germans. A camp for prisoners of war was even built in Svobiškis. The length of the bridge is 70 m, width – 2.6 m, height – 9.6 m. It is the only reinforced concrete arch bridge in Lithuania in a narrow gauge railway section. Materials of exceptional quality were used for the structure. In the Soviet era, the railway line was abolished, a road was built in its place, and the bridge was adapted for car traffic.

The old Toliūnai water mill is mentioned already in 1857. It belonged to Toliūnai Manor, it had only one millstone. The mill burned down in 1905. The fire could have been caused by oil leaking from old equipment. The new owners of the manor built a new field stone masonry mill in 1909 that still stands today.

The mill has three floors. In the upper one there were two millstones. In the lower part – devices for pouring flour and groats into sacks. In the western part there were living quarters – three rooms and a kitchen.

During the First World War, the Toliūnai manor and the mill were under the control of Germans. Later, it was bought by the Jews of Pakruojis region, who did not live here, but hired local workers. The building was purchased in 1927 by Mrs. Agnieška Jasukevičienė, who came from the USA, thanks to whom the wool processing equipment was installed in the mill. The mill was famous throughout the region, customers came here even from Panevėžys. In the Soviet era, the mill was turned by an electric motor. Then the mill stopped operating. Today it is a private property, but it stands abandoned.

The date of its construction is commemorated on the wall of the mill – 1899. The mill was built by Baron Han, the landowner of Plonėnai. The powerful, 4-story, 18-meter-high building is made of local clay bricks. Foundations from field stones. The mill had four wings and a modern drawbar, a device for turning the cap against the wind. Four millstone were turning: two for grinding of feed grains, one for bread, and one for fine grinding and sorting. In the days of independent Lithuania, the mill was rented by the Jew Moderniekas, but he was kicked out due to disagreements. The new owner built a steam engine and set up a sawmill. The Soviets, who occupied Lithuania, nationalized the mill and exiled the owner to Siberia. The mill was restored in the 1980s, adapted for festivals, and an extension was built next to it. However, the work was not completed after the change in the political establishment. The privatized building housed a cafe-bar, later a second-hand clothing store. The mill no longer received the attention it needed, it lost its face, its wings fell off, and its walls began to crumble.

In the middle of the 19th century, the family of the landowner Aleksandaras Chodakauskas bought the Vytartai manor. On the side of Pasvalys, on the picturesque bend of Mūša River, the mansion was once haunted by the silhouettes of famous women. Sofija Smetonienė, the wife of Antanas Smetona, the first president of Lithuania, often visited here, at the house of her grandmother Šarlotė Osten Saken Chodakauskienė. Gabrielė Petkevičaitė-Bitė, godmother of S. Smetonienė, also from the Chodakauskai family, was a frequent guest in Vytartai. Grandfather of S. Smetonienė and father of G. Petkevičaitė-Bitė were brothers.

On the road to the manor an arched bridge was built over Mūša River in 1928. President A. Smetona himself participated in the opening of the bridge. There was a school in the Vytartai manor from 1931 to 1968. Currently, the manor belongs to private individuals.